Khadi silk quilts through women self-help group (go back »)
May 16 2008, 7:15 AM
Silk industry in India is an agro based industry. In the process of production of cocoon to
fabrics various types of wastes are produced at different stages from Cocoon to fabric
garment. The important categories of the silk waste are: Pierced Cocoons from Grainages in
which moth has emerged.Unreelable Cocoons which are cut, soiled, irregular shapes, Thin
transparent cocoonsFilature wasteThrowsters waste.Waste produced during weaving, Knitting,
cutting waste-Apparel productionNormally above mentioned wastes are the Raw material for
the Spun Silk yarn both in Mulberry and Non-Mulberry silks. One of the major byproducts in
Sericulture is Pierced Cocoons and Defective cocoons which are not suitable for the
production of continuous filament silk. Pierced cocoons give top quality silk. Both
Mulberry and Non-Mulberry Unreelable cocoons can be converted as Hand made Nonwoven
suitable for QUILTS, Wadding garments.First step in QUILT is sorting, softening of
Unreelable cocoons without pupae through degumming i.e. removal of Sericin-the gum Excess
water is squeezed from the degummed cocoons and the cocoons in wet condition are used for
making web. Individual wet cocoon is slightly opened by hand and then stretched pulled
from the top along the Bell shaped Web Maker till the base to form a bell shaped thin layer
of web. The same process is continued placing 3to 4 layers one above the other as per the
required thickness. The web is then removed and dried under shade.Bell shaped dried webs
are placed on table and stretched gently and uniformly on all sides to form a square web
Felt sheet form. Number of such webs are placed one above the other as per the thickness,
length, width of QUILT required (say 7 X 7 x 6) `The Web in spread sheet should be stitched
at different places wrapped with the bandage mosquito type cloth. Finally to add value to
the quilt, Dupion silk or printed silk or Embroidered Silk fabric may be used as cover. The
stitching method is similar to that followed in preparation of cotton quilts
beds.Mulberry, ERI, Tassar Unreelable cocoons are suitable for the production of QUILT
which will be bulky, light weight and warmer than cotton. Organisations like KVIC, HHEPC,
NGOs which are mainly concerned with the promotion of hand made products may implement the
technology of diversified utility of Unreelable cocoons for the production of value added
products without involving much additional expenditure infrastructure. In India, Self-Help
Groups are promoted by N.G.Os, banks and co-operatives can take up the project. The SHGs
have made a lasting impact on the lives of the women particularly in the rural areas. Their
quality of life has improved a lot.
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